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Improvised Mechanical Filter for Removing Fallout From Water

From: Stardust35@aol.com

If the materials aren’t available to build a slow sand filter, or some
other means of water treatment is preferred, it may still be advantageous to
mechanically filter the water before treating it with chemicals or passing
through a microfilter. Generally the idea is to allow the water to flow as
slowly as possible through a bed of sand. In a municipal water treatment
plant this is called a rapid sand filter. The particular design below is
included, because the designer, a research engineer at Oak Ridge National
Laboratories, found it particularly effective at removing fallout from water.
The filter will do little or nothing to remove pathogens, though removing
suspended solids allow others water treatment methods to work more
effectively.

Expedient water filter, from Nuclear War Survival Skills, Cresson
Kearny, ORNL

1) Perforate the bottom of a 5 gallon bucket, or similar container with a
dozen nail holes even spread over a 4" diameter circle in the center of the
container.

2) Place a 1.5" layer of small stones or pebbles in the bottom of the can. If
pebbles aren’t available, marbles, clean bottle caps, twisted coat hangers or
clean twigs can be used.

3) Cover the pebbles with one thickness of terrycloth towel, burlap
sackcloth, or other porous cloth. Curl the cloth in a roughly circular shape
about three inches larger then the diameter of the can.

4) Take soil containing some clay (pure clay isn’t porous enough, pure sand
is too porous) from at least 4" below the surface of the ground (nearly all
fallout particles remain near the surface except after disposition on sand or
gravel.)

5) Pulverize the soil, then gently press it in layers over the cloth that
covers the pebbles, so that the cloth is held snugly against the walls of the
can. The soil should be 6-7" thick.

6) Completely cover the surface of the soil layer with one thickness of
fabric as porous as a bath towel. This is to keep the soil from being eroded
as water is being poured into the filter. A dozen small stones placed on the
cloth near it’s edges will secure it adequately.

7) Support the filter on rocks or sticks placed across the top of a clter can (such as a dishpan)

The contaminated water should be poured into the filter can, preferably
after allowing it to settle as described below. The filtered water should be
disinfected by some method.

If the 6 or 7 inches of filtering soil is a sandy clay loam, the filter
will initially deliver about 6 quarts/hour. If the filter is any faster than
this then the fabric layer needs to be removed and the soil compressed more.
The filtering rate will drop over time as the filter begins to clog up. When
this happens the top 1/2" of soil can be removed to increase the filtering
rate. After 50 or so quarts, the filter will need to be rebuilt with fresh
soil.

As with any filter, optimum performance will be achieved if sediment in
the water will be allowed to settle out before passing the water through the
filter

If the water is contaminated with fallout, clay can be added to help the
fallout particles to settle out. The procedure is as follows:

Fill a bucket or other deep container 3/4 full with contaminated water.
Dig pulverized clay or clayey soil from a depth of four or more inches below
ground surface and stir it into the water. Use about 1 inch of dry clay or
clayey soil for every 4" depth of water. Stir until practically all of the
clay particles are suspended in the water. Let the clay settle for at least 6
hours. This will carry the fallout particles to the bottom and cover them.
Carefully dip out or siphon the clear water and disinfect it.

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